Roll’n Clean Self Cleaning Litter Box by Omegapaw – a self cleaning litter box that really works! The unique patented grill inside the Roll’n Clean™ scoops out the clumped waste, depositing it into the pull-out tray. Just roll the litter box onto its top, and roll back to the upright position. Remove the tray and dispose of waste! For fast and easy cleaning, use the Roll’n Clean.
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Is there really such a thing as an affordable self cleaning litter box? And even if there is …. will cats use it?

The answers are yes, there is, and yes, they will. The Omega Paw Self Cleaning Litter Box is absolutely as close to hands-free litter box maintenance as you can get with a non-automatic model …. and yes, cats will definitely use it. Put those two facts together and you get pretty close to the cat-owners dream: a simple, easy cat-approved solution to litter box maintenance that eliminates odors, litter-tracking, and handling waste.

What you get: The Omegapaw Roll’n Clean self cleaning litter box is essentially a two-piece covered litter box with a built-in screen to separate clean litter from waste material and a removable waste waste collection tray. Both small and large sizes are available and a number of buyers noted that even very large cats found it roomy enough.

How it works: The bottom of the box is the litter tray and you fill it with a couple inches of with any good clumping litter, just as you would any cat box. The cat enters the box through the roomy round “doorway” and does the business as usual. (NOTE: if you have an enthusiastic excavator who kicks up a storm of litter, you’ll appreciate the cover!) When it’s time to clean the box, you simply roll it upside down and then back. The clean litter sifts through the screen and the waste is automatically trapped in the waste collection tray, which can then be easily removed and dumped.

Sound confusing? Watch this video and see the Omegapaw Roll’n Clean in action!

• Easy snap-together assembly – you don’t have to be an engineer to get it put together!

• Fill with any good clumping litter – no extra expense for special litter

• Fast and easy cleaning – just roll the box over on it’s round side so its upside down, then return to rightside up

• No scooping required – simply remove the waste collection tray and dump waste

• That’s it – you’re done! The cat box is clean and so are you – hands-free, no scooping, clean box!!

• BEST OF ALL: CATS LOVE IT! If the cat won’t cooperate, it doesn’t matter what you buy, right? But this is something that cats will really use. They like the privacy and they appreciate the clean, odor-free facilities.

The bottom line: The Omega Paw Self Cleaning Litter Box is affordable (around $35), easy to put together, easy to clean, and cats will actually use it.

• Is it clean? This is really a major issue with most cats. Felines are fastidious and a box that’s soiled or smelly can be a real turn-off. Cats vary in their tolerance for a messy litter box, but just about every cat will eventually reach the “no way!” point where they simply refuse to even go near it. A quick daily scooping session can work wonders.

• Is it TOO clean? Scrubbing and deodorizing a litter box too often can actually create problems – cats rely largely on the sense of smell, and if your box smells too much like disinfectant the cat could actually be confused. This is particularly important with very young cats who are just mastering the art of litter training.

• Is it big enough? Many of the plastic containers sold as kitty litter boxes are far too small for a cat to use comfortably. The litter box should be large enough for the cat to sit in and deep enough for the cat to bury the excrement.

• Have you recently changed your brand of litter? Some cats have very definite preferences about the litter they use. Generally whatever form/brand of litter they’re the most accustomed to is going to have the best success rate.

• Is the box in a private place? Cats like their privacy all the time, and never more than when toilet issues are concerned. A quiet, out-of-the-way location is best.

• Does the cat have constant access? If your cat has to get you to open the basement or garage door in order to get to the kitty litter box, you both have a problem. Be sure the cat can get to the box all the time, whether there’s anyone home or not.

• Is the box a convenient height for the cat? Older cats, just like older humans, get arthritis. If the sides of the box are too high for the cat to climb into easily, there could be problems.

• Are multiple cats sharing the same box? This can be a real issue for some cats, while others don’t seem to mind. If you’ve just introduced a new cat to your household, try setting up a second litter box near the original one.

If your kitty litter boxes stand up to this checklist, it probably isn’t the cause of the toilet problems.

How much food do cats need?
Experts vary in their opinions on exactly how much a cat needs to eat each day, but there seems to be a general consensus that a normal, healthy adult cat probably requires about one ounce of food per pound of body weight per day, totaling somewhere in the area of 250-300 calories (depending on the size, age, and activity level of the cat).

All major brand cat foods offer feeding instructions on the can or bag, and it’s important to follow those instructions because they’re written for the specific nutrients that food contains.

However a rough rule of thumb would be to feed a reasonably active adult cat the equivalent of two small or one large can of cat food per day, divided into two or three separate feedings. If dry cat food is part of the cat’s diet, the dry food should be included in the total – for instance, you could meet an eight-ounce requirement with four ounces of canned food and four of dry food.

It’s also important to consider the cat’s stage of life. Kittens actually require more food than adult cats, and pregnant cats need additional food as well.

Is water important?
Yes, absolutely. Your cat should have access to clean water at all times. If the cat’s diet includes dry food this is even more important. If your cats don’t seem to want water from a designated water bowl, try leaving some filled glasses of water in cat-accessible spaces (like on the sink in the bathroom). Just remember not to reach for it yourself on a sleepy morning.

How about milk?
Some cats really like milk, but it’s not a requirement for health in the diet of an adult cat and many don’t digest it well. If your cat develops diahrea after drinking milk, try substituting a small amount of cream. The butterfat in the cream is actually good for cats (in small amounts) and most cats love it.

How often should I feed my cat?
Most experts say feeding twice a day is a good regimen, and for people who are away from home all day it makes a lot of sense – feed before you go off to work, and feed again when you come home. It can be helpful to keep a dish of dry catfood available to the cat at all time. Like us, cats tend to enjoy snacks.

Keep bowls clean and food at room temperature.
Cats can be pretty finicky about cleanliness, and if their food dish smells like yesterday’s meal they may refuse to eat. Ceramic bowls are good for cat food because they don’t absorb odors, as plastic dishes tend to do. Room temperature is best. Food that is very warm or very cold may lead to digestion problems in some cats.

The depth of the container is important too, but deeper isn’t necessarily better. If the side of the container are too tall, very young or very old cats may find it difficult to get into (and will therefore do their business elsewhere).

2. Use the right litter
Most cats seem to prefer fine-grained litters, which are softer and less dusty. All scoopable or clumping litters have a fine-grain texture, and though most clay litters are more coarse-grained, high quality non-scoopable litters are fine-grained enough to suit most cats.

Cats can be very fussy about what litter they will or won’t use, and one of the deciding factors is often smell. If you switch from a standard type of litter to a scented type, your cat may very well stage a boycott. A thin layer of baking soda on the bottom of the litter box will do a lot to keep odors down, but regular scooping and cleaning is the real answer.

3. Use the right amount of litter
More isn’t necessarily better when it comes to filling the litter box. Cats prefer a relatively shallow depth of litter, usually in the 2″ to 3″ range. If your litter is at a depth over 4″, your cat may not be comfortable using it. Long-haired cats in particular sometimes seem to prefer a shallower litter, and may try to dig down to the bottom of the box.

4. Have the right number of boxes
The expert advice is to have as many boxes as you have cats, plus one extra. While that’s not always practical, you should definitely have more than one litter box if you have more than one cat. Even if you only have one cat, it’s a good idea to have a litter box on each level of your house.

5. Put the boxes in the right locations
Cats like their privacy, and one of the keys to getting a cat to use the litter box is to put it in a place that’s quiet and out of the way. But resist the temptation to put the box as far away from “living quarters” as possible – for instance, in the garage or in the far corner of the basement. For one thing, if the box is so far away that you forget about it, you’re less likely to keep it scooped and clean. And if it’s so far away that it’s inconvenient to get to, your cat is going to find alternative places to take care of business.

6. Most important of all: clean, clean, clean!!
Cats vary a great deal in their tolerance for soiled litter, but eventually every cat will reach the “no way!” point and simply refuse to use a box that’s too dirty. Scoop the litter box daily, and add litter as needed to maintain a depth of 2″ to 3″.

How often you need to do a complete litter change (emptying the box, disposing of the used litter, washing the box and refilling with fresh litter) depends on the size of the box and how many cats are using it. If there is a noticeable smell around the box, it’s time for a litter change. Scoopable litter usually only needs to be changed every two or three weeks, while standard litter should be changed at least once a week.

Don’t use strong or potentially toxic cleaners or chemicals to wash out the box – the could be harmful to your cat. And even if they’re not harmful, if they leave a noticeable smell behind, your cat may refuse to use the box.

If you have a wet-dry vac, this is the perfect place to use it! If not, blot up as much of the wetness as you can. Don’t stop with the surface wetness – put pressure on the mattress and try to extract as much of the urine from the inside as possible.

There are many excellent commercial products made specifically for removing cat urine odors, and there’s no doubt that one of these is probably your best and surest bet. But don’t panic – if you don’t happen to have any of those products at hand, try one of the alternatives below.

Method one: After extracting as much of the urine as you can, soak the urine stain with white vinegar. Some recommend a mixture of half vinegar and half water, but I’ve used straight vinegar with good results. Let the vinegar sit for a few minutes, then use more paper towels to extract as much of it as you can from the mattress. Next drizzle some diswashing liquid over the area and scrub it with a damp brush (like a soft scrub brush or nail brush). Wipe with plain water, then sprinkle the area liberally with baking soda and rub it lightly into the fabric. When the baking soda has dried, vaccum the area. This method tend to leave the mattress smelling slightly like vinegar, but it beats the alternative.

Method two: After extracting as much of the urine as you can, sprinkle the area liberally with baking soda, then soak the area with hydrogen peroxide. Work the soda/peroxide mixture into the fabric with a soft brush and let dry. Vacuum up any remaining soda. If the smell remains after the mattress is dry, repeat the process. It can take two or three scrubbings to completely eliminate the smell.

Method three: after extracting as much of the urine as you can, make a paste from hydrogen peroxide, dishwashing liquid, and baking soda and work it into the fabric. let dry and vacuum. If the smell remains after the mattress is dry, repeat the process as often as you need to until the smell is gone.

Method four: extract the urine, scrub down the area with shampoo or dishwashing liquid, then soak the area with rubbing alcohol. If the smell remains after the mattress is dry, repeat the process as needed.

If the urine has already dried into the mattress when you discover the problem, getting rid of the odor will be more of a challenge. Just spraying the area with a fabric odor treatment like Febreeze won’t work unless you do something to neutralize the urine that has dried deep in the mattress, so you’ll have to scrub it with something. Again, a commercial product specifically made to get rid of cat urine odor will probably be the most effective, but the methods above are definitely worth a shot. If the weather permits and you can shift the mattress, doing the scrubbing outdoors and letting the mattress dry in the sun can help.

If you have a persistent mattress pee-er, think about taking him or her to the vet for a checkup. This behavior frequently can be a sign of an elimination-related illness such as a urinary tract infection. Cats who are feeling stress may also exhibit this behavior. A waterproof mattress cover can be a lifesaver.